Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, Unesco recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious list of global cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it joins a international community of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "demonstrates its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and dynamic food ecosystem," as stated by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this historic city comes as no surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the limelight for what has consistently defined its soul: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing conversation from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and taken to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – lesser-known delights that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The vendor whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but note that their children do not want to take up the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will motivate more people around the world to discover these narratives and visit the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
